The Franz Josef Glacier is located in South Westland, on the West Coast of New Zealand at 43.5 degrees south, equivalent in latitude to the south of France. It’s an unusual place to find a glacier! There are no glaciers that extend down to sea level in France, so why does it happen here?
Descending to just 250m (820ft) above sea level, Franz Josef Glacier is one of only three glaciers in the world that descend into a temperate rainforest zone, the others being Fox Glacier (just south of Franz Josef Glacier) and the Perito Merino Glacier in Argentina (that we visit on our Condor trip). Franz Josef Glacier is steeper and faster moving than Fox Glacier, but like many glaciers worldwide, it is also retreating. The glacier is still rocketing down the valley, but the melting at the front, or terminal face, is faster than the ice is descending. Let’s figure out how all this works…
Literally running through Franz Josef is the Alpine Fault, which is the join where two tectonic plates collide - you can read more about it on our Geology of New Zealand page. The plate on the east side of the join (the Pacific Plate) is being pushed up and past the plate on the west side (the Indo-Australian plate) and this movement is what has formed the Southern Alps. In fact, the Southern Alps are still growing, at about 5mm a year! Being one of the youngest and fastest-growing mountain chains in the world, the result has been the creation of dramatically steep mountains as high as 3,700m (12,300ft), within 40km (25 miles) of the coast.
Now, have you ever heard of the ‘Roaring Forties’? These are a system of winds and weather patterns that circle the bottom part of the globe continuously, and relentlessly – they pretty much have nothing in their way, except Patagonia, a few hungry albatrosses and… the Southern Alps. When the moist ‘Roaring Forties’ wind hits the Alps, it gets forced upward very quickly and then dumps enormous amounts of moisture in the form of rain down low, or snow up top. On average, the upper Franz Josef Glacier gets almost 14m (45ft) of snow every year! The upper catchment area, or nevé, of the Franz Josef Glacier is about 20km2, so it’s a pretty big area for snow to accumulate. Eventually, that snow gets buried by more snow and then compacts and turns to ice, and because the valley is so narrow and steep and has an enormous amount of ice in the nevé, the glacier begins to flow under its own weight (imagine squeezing a tube of toothpaste, the tube being the valley walls and the paste being the glacier).
The other factor that contributes to the glacier being able to make it to almost sea level without melting is, again, rainfall. Because there is so much rainfall, water is constantly on, under and around the lower part of the glacier. This acts as a kind of lubricant, enabling the glacier to accelerate to great speeds (for a glacier!). So, the glacier is descending down the valley faster than it can melt. The rate of flow varies depending how high you are on the glacier - up top where there is greater pressure, it can reach speeds of 1m (about 3ft) per day, while down the bottom where the pressure is less, it “crawls” along at 30cm (1ft) a day.
We’ve had little snow over recent winters and the catchment area has not been “topped up” very quickly, thus the weight and pressure up top has reduced, which, in turn, slows down the movement of the ice below. The melting, however, continues at a pretty steady rate, so the glacier goes into a retreat - the melt rate is faster than the flow rate. All make sense? Good, because there’ll be a quiz during one of our trips… just kidding… maybe ;)
Now, you’re probably thinking to yourself “with 6m (20ft) of rain a year, Franz Josef township, might be, well, a bit ‘drizzly.’” Indeed it can be, and the locals have a love-hate relationship with the rain, because without it, they wouldn’t have a glacier or beautiful rainforest right in their backyard. There are, however, a lot of other positives, like gushing waterfalls, glacier views, a unique guiding-history and, of course, the glacier is just “a stone’s throw” away from the town. It has bred a hardy bunch of people who look past the elements and have a real passion for the environment they live in. So, when on one of our trips, cruise up to a local “West Coaster” in Franz (as it is affectionately known) and ask them about the weather – it’s sure to break the “ice”… and you might also find out what “liquid sunshine” is.
This is our signature adventure and a great, outdoorsy way to see New Zealand. We’ve been fine-tuning this perennial favourite since 1996 and it’s simply an awesome trip. You’ll explore the most beautiful, famous and little-known places in the South Island – up close and personal – with legendary hospitality and our unsurpassed attention to detail. For a great way to see the North Island too, combine this trip with our 11-day 'Kauri' (5-day 'Kauri' options available).
Activity level: The ‘Rimu’ is one of our more adventurous trips, but has options to suit a wide range of ages and outdoor experience. Typically, hikes on the ‘Rimu’ trip range between two and five hours to complete, with longer hikes available on the multi-day option. If you think you’d prefer a more relaxed pace and shorter one to three hour hikes, we recommend checking out our ‘Kiwi’ trip. Please get in touch with us if you’d like to chat about the various options.
This is an action-packed adventure where you’ll explore some of New Zealand’s most iconic and remote wilderness. It works well if your vacation time is limited, since you can fly from North America on a Friday evening, sleep on the plane, and be back at work ten days later to share your photos and stories on Monday morning. For a great way to see the North Island too, combine this trip with our 11-day 'Kauri' (5-day 'Kauri' options available).
Activity level: The ‘Tui’ suits people of a wide range of fitness levels and outdoor experience, particularly if you enjoy a variety of activities. Typically hikes on the ‘Tui’ trip range between two and six hours to complete.
If you wish to concentrate on hiking the iconic tracks of New Zealand and like your creature comforts, we’ve crafted this trip just for you. It has a strong focus on New Zealand’s natural history. Our guides have plenty of time to interpret the flora and fauna and explain the geological and social history of the areas you’ll visit. You also have the choice of a selection of the best day hikes Fiordland National Park has to offer, along with an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound, or hiking the famous Milford Track in its entirety. The ‘Manuka’ really is hiking New Zealand in style!
Activity level: The 'Manuka' is an active hiking trip, but has options to suit a wide range of fitness levels and outdoor experience. Typically hikes on the 'Manuka' trip range between three and six hours to complete, with longer hikes on the Milford Track Guided Walk option.
New to adventure vacations or not quite ready to hang up your hiking boots just yet? On this South Island walking tour you'll experience beautiful, famous and little-known places – taking plenty of time to explore along the way! For a great way to see the North Island too, combine this trip with our 11-day 'Kauri' (5 day 'Kauri' options available).
Activity level: The ‘Kiwi’ suits anyone who enjoys walking and likes to give things a go. The pace is flexible and relaxed with most hikes taking one to three hours to complete on well-formed tracks with some undulations.
Let us take care of every detail so that you and your family can enjoy exploring New Zealand’s iconic places on a fun outdoorsy adventure. The ‘Kea’ is the perfect opportunity for everyone in the family to try some new activities together while our guides encourage, entertain, serve up delicious meals and ensure you make the most of your precious vacation time. You’ll be amazed how much everyone learns along the way and our guides will have you laughing as much as the kids! For a great way to see the North Island too, combine this trip with our 11-day 'Kauri' (5-day 'Kauri' options available).
Activity level: This trip has been designed to be fun and gently challenging for the young, and the young at heart. The pace is flexible and most hikes range between two and four hours to complete.
Here's a pretty cool video of what it's like to travel with your family, on an Active Adventures trip.
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